Pasamontana or, as it is also called, balaclava is a special mask-hat, which is used mainly by the military and other special forces, where anonymity and increased psychological impact during a special operation are required. However, the ways of fashion are inscrutable, so today the balaclava is gradually appearing as a stylish headdress in the collections of various world-famous fashion houses.

Appearance

The balaclava, as an item of uniform, appeared during the Crimean War of 1853-1856. At that time, the Russian Empire was confronted by a coalition consisting of the French, British, Ottoman Empires and the Kingdom of Sardinia.

Military operations were conducted in different regions of the country, but the most severe and protracted battles broke out in Crimea. The soldiers of the British Empire, who fought near Balaklava, had the hardest time enduring the unprecedented cold, which made fighting doubly difficult. As a result, some craftsmen came up with a special type of winter hat, which, in fact, was worn like a helmet and covered not only the head, but the entire face and part of the neck. Slits were made for the eyes on such a mask-hat. Soon the development turned into part of the military equipment and began to enter service. Balaklava (this is what this headdress was called in honor of the region near which the battle was fought) perfectly protected the skin of the face from frostbite and hypothermia.

What is it

Many people firmly associate the balaclava with either military units or people associated with crime. But in fact, the insulated helmet mask is actively and successfully used, for example, by skiers, snowboarders and other winter sports enthusiasts. Tourists who go on mountain hikes or residents of the northern regions of the country, where winter frosts reach critical levels, have more than one balaclava in their arsenal. Cyclists and bikers use lightweight models of the pasamontana, which are suitable for summer (they protect the face from strong winds, dust and sand storms).

The pasamontana is a specific headdress shaped like a wide stocking. It is worn directly under the helmet or used with other headdresses (for example, when going on hiking trips or for everyday wear). The front of such a stocking has slits for the eyes, nose and mouth.

The balaclava can be worn in different ways and can be easily transformed. It can be used as:

• hat,
• mask;
• balaclava;
• scarf.

Pasamontana helps maintain natural heat exchange during fast movement or riding, it protects from strong wind, snow, sand, dust, frost.

Today, this wardrobe item is available in various variations:

• with an oval neckline;
• completely covering the head;
• having only holes for the eyes;
• consisting of two parts;
• A free-form balaclava that can be adjusted in size and fit.

Pasamontana is made from various materials. Most often on sale you can find products made from:

• wool;
• fleece;
• combined materials;
• cotton.

The design also varies. There are options with various patterns, and animal prints, and abstract embroideries, and designs that refer to various phenomena of mass culture. Such models, naturally, are suitable only for everyday wear.

Infiltrating Pop Culture

Despite the fact that the balaclava was initially an item of military uniform, and then migrated to the equipment of special forces, it was constantly flashing in areas only remotely related to military themes. At one point, the pasamontana became an integral attribute of members of bandit groups.

It was only a matter of time before the balaclava entered the world of high fashion, as this headdress combined many contradictory associations – a real cornucopia for designers and fashion designers. The first to borrow the balaclava as an attribute of “bad guys” were, of course, rappers. These guys love to challenge the public, be it musical or fashion. Kanye West was the first to appear in public in a balaclava, followed by A$AP Rocky.

In 2012, Kanye even released his own collection of masks, which were part of the costumes from his concert in Atlantic City. Pasamontanas were embroidered with rhinestones, stars, some were decorated with geometric patterns. A little later, West appeared on the red carpet in his signature balaclava, after which other representatives of hip-hop culture began to follow the musician: Tyga, Travis Scott, Drake, Cardi B, as well as performers who had nothing to do with the world of hip-hop.

Gradually, balaclavas began to penetrate the catwalks of famous fashion houses. Gucci, Calvin Klein , Raf Simons and Marine Serre presented their versions of the headdress. Designers actively play with the shape and colors in these headdresses, trying to rethink the familiar model of a mask-hat.

Today, pasamontanas are in the assortment of most self-respecting fashion brands, from Dior and Burberry to Fendi and Lanvin. In 2021, Matthew Williams created a collection of balaclavas for Givenchy with small horns, knitted and fur inserts, visors, and textile crowns.

What to wear with

And yet, despite such an active formation of balaclavas in popular culture, most people are still confused at the sight of this headdress. It is difficult to find something for such a “daring” accessory in its essence.

Stylists advise wearing balaclavas with coats of any style – the main thing is to choose the right shade and texture. With fur coats, such a headdress, of course, will look absurd. Pasamontana goes well with sheepskin coats, leather jackets, and military-style raincoats.